Inside Ni’ihau Hawaii’s Exclusive ‘Forbidden Island’ That Stays Hidden From Tourists

Jackson Sawa | November 14, 2024 1:00 pm

For most people, Hawaii is associated with white sandy beaches, luaus, tan surfers, and a laidback lifestyle. But outside of the popular tourist destinations like Honolulu, Oahu, and Maui, there is an island that most people don't even know exists.

Located 17 miles off the west coast of Kauai lies the island of Ni'ihau, better known as The Forbidden Isle. The island has mysteriously been "protected" from outsiders since the 1800s. Read on to find out what they are hiding, and to learn about Ni'ihau's fascinating history.

Ni'ihau Is An Island Stuck In Time

KAUAI, NIIHAU, HAWAII, OCTOBER 3, 2016: This is a rendered 3d visualization of the Hawaii islands of Kauai and Niihau.
enhanced by maps4media via Getty Images
enhanced by maps4media via Getty Images

The island of Ni'ihau might have the same beautiful, sandy shores as Hawaii but you will never get to touch them. The island has had little to no contact with the outside world and today, it looks as though it is stuck in time. The islanders there live the same as their ancestors did hundreds of years ago, hunting and fishing to survive.

The only reason it has become preserved is thanks to a woman named Elizabeth McHutchenson and a strange deal made in the 1800s.

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It All Started With Elizabeth McHutchenson

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Elizabeth McHutchenson, better known as Eliza, was born in Scotland in 1800. She grew up and married a ship's captain, Francis Sinclair, in 1824, and the two shared six children. After the birth of their sixth child, the Sinclair family decided to set sail and begin a new life in New Zealand.

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Little did the family know that this decision would change the course of the future of the family forever.

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Everything Seemed To Be Working Out

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Everything Seemed To Be Working Out
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The family arrived in New Zealand in 1841 and settled in Pigeon Bay where they set up a rather successful farming operation. Although the family was now involved in the farming business, Francis was a sea captain and used his skills to sail the family's farming supplies to trade.

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Five years after arriving on the island, Francis and his eldest son set out to sea, where they were met with a great tragedy. Their ship sank, taking the lives of everyone on board and resulting in the loss of all of their cargo.

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Eliza Wouldn't Give Up That Easily

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She Wasn't Going To Give Up
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After losing both her husband and eldest son, Eliza now had nothing to show for the years of work she had put into their farm in Pigeon Bay. With five children to look after, Eliza knew she couldn't give up.

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She turned Pigeon Bay into a thriving farm once again, married off all of her children, and decided the family would move to Canada. In 1863, the family set out once again, this time for Canada in hopes of starting a new farm.

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It Wasn't What They Were Expecting

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Upon arriving in Canada later that year, the family was disappointed when they reached Vancouver Island. The land was still mostly wild and underdeveloped — not the ideal conditions for establishing a successful farm.

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While Eliza was debating on moving to California, she heard about a promising place — the Hawaiian Islands, then known as the Sandwich Islands. It was then that she decided to relocate the family to Hawaii and meet with King Kamehameha V in hopes of purchasing Ni'ihau Island.

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There Was One Condition

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1904, Land Office Map of Niihau, Hawaii
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King Kamehameha V agreed to sell the island to the Sinclairs for $10,000 in gold in 1864. However, before he gave them full control of the island, he requested that the family protect the island and its residents from outside influences.

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The Sinclairs agreed to the terms and began their new life on the island. Eliza was considered a chieftess by the island natives and the family did all they could to help those on the island.

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They Cracked Down In The 1930s

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The Sinclairs now owned Ni'ihau Island as private property and were able to separate themselves as much as possible form the ever-encroaching United States. They took King Kamehameha V's request seriously and in the 1930s, announced that Ni'ihau would be closed to all visitors entirely.

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This was to keep the island safe from the spread of diseases like polio and measles, as well as to maintain the Native Hawaiian culture of the island which is known as "kahiki."

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The Island Today

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Today, the island is still privately owned by the Robinson family, descendants of Eliza Sinclair and her family. They have managed to uphold their ancestor's pledge to King Kamehameha V and have kept the island private and unaffected by outside influences of the modern world. They still live off of the land and use old skills like hunting and fishing in order to survive. The island is also one of the only places in the world where Hawaiian is the dominant language.

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Bruce and Keith Robinson told ABC News, "We've tried to maintain the request of the King when it was turned over [...] We maintain the island for the people and continue to work it as he had."

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Life On The Island Is Relaxed

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Being separated from the world has its perks. For the most part, life on the island has been described as being incredibly relaxed and harmonious. While the island still doesn't have running water or electricity, the inhabitants sustain themselves by collecting rainwater and using solar panels.

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Almost every house on the island has a solar panel of its own. Being away from the hustle and bustle of a big city and technology, life is slow-paced.

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The Island's Inhabitants Can Come And Go

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Not everyone can come and go as they please on the island, but the island's inhabitants can. TheNi'ihauans aren't ignorant as to what life is like on the mainland, and many split their time between Kauai and the 'forbidden island' because there is more work on Kauai.

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This makes determining how many people live on the island difficult. In a 2010 census, it was estimated that 170 people live on the island, yet that number is believed to be closer to 70.

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The Island Has Numerous Rules

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Stuck In Time
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Although living on the island might sound like heaven-on-earth for some people, the inhabitants are still controlled by a series of laws created by the Sinclair and now Robinson family. Supposedly, those who call Ni'ihau home aren't allowed to have guns or alcohol in their possession and are required to go to church every Sunday.

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Furthermore, one former resident claims that men are not allowed to have long hair or earrings and that breaking any of the rules can result in eviction from the island.

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Many Provisions Are Delivered Straight To The Island

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Delivered To The Island
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Considering how isolated the island is to the other parts of Hawaii, it's necessary that some provisions such as food and supplies are brought over. Weekly deliveries come by barge and contain goods — except for items that are banned such as alcohol, tobacco, and guns.

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Interestingly enough, while the Islanders may not be allowed guns, due to the island's position, the US Military has set up a defensive operations base. There, they employ several of its inhabitants.

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What It's Like To Actually Live There

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There are mixed claims about what it's like to actually live on Ni'ihau. Some sources compare it to a utopian society where everyone follows strict laws and cultural beliefs, while others say otherwise. Peter T. Young, the former Department of Land and Natural Resources director of Hawaii, explained it best.

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He claims that "[Ni'ihau] is isolated for the rest of us, but it's not an isolated island for them. They don’t look any different, they don’t act any different [...] They live in a place that the rest of us have a very limited opportunity to see."

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The Island Is Guarded Against Outsiders

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One Condition
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Both the Robinson family and those living on the island agree that they want to keep their close-knit community far away from the eyes of tourists and other Hawaiians. Unauthorized entrance by people who don't live on the island is strictly prohibited and there are consequences for anyone that tries to make their way onto the island illegally.

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However, getting to the island is difficult enough, so people intruding on the island isn't a major concern.

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There Are Limited Tours Available

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Amazingly, despite being so closed-off to non-residents and even media, the island does offer very exclusive tours and limited guided tours. While you may not be able to go deep into the island, some tours will at least get you to its shores.

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For a pretty penny, some tours take you on a privately chartered helicopter for a half-day tour around the island. However, an all-day guided hunting safari costs around $1,700 per person which offers more access to the island.

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Tours Will Never Get You Close To The Residential Areas

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Never Close To Residential Areas
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According to island owner Bruce Robinson, "The tours are solely for people to come to see an unspoiled Hawaiian Island [...] We will not take [tourists] to the village or put the residents into a fishbowl-type of situation. We don't even fly over the village. That is not what we’re about."

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He continued saying, "We respect their privacy, we respect their desire to live untouched by the outside world and we intend to preserve that." So, if you sign up for a tour, don't get your hopes up to see what living on the island is really like.

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The Island Is Booming With Wildlife

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Because the human population on the island is so small, it allows for all of the island's plants and animals to thrive, including some endangered species. One of these endangered species is the monk seal, whose population in Hawaii has grown every year after the species began to successfully breed on Ni'ihau.

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At the moment, there are around 35 seals with 10 to 12 pups being born on the island each year. This is yet another reason why the island is so well protected.

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The Inhabitants Are Known For Their Shell Leis

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Ni'ihau shells are typically referred to shells that are specifically found on the 'forbidden island' which are then used to make shell leis. There are typically three different kinds of shells used although they vary in color and texture.

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The majority of the inhabitants of the island are avid artists and craft makers, with many of them focusing on creating these specialized leis. These can be found in stores throughout the Hawaiian Islands, with their prices varying depending on the availability of certain shells.

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Entertainment On The Island

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Shell Leis
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Because there's such little technological advancement on the island, when they're not working, for entertainment, most inhabitants rely on spending time at the beach, watching DVDs or VHS videos, or whatever else to preoccupy themselves. However, like any other person, a lot of the islanders get bored and some opt to leave the island at some point in their life.

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With the option to come and go as they please, many people upon reaching their 20s leave to experience the outside world although they're welcomed back upon their return.